
The Grand Arctic Rail Odyssey
Fly into Tromsø, coach to Narvik, then the Arctic night train through Swedish Lapland to Stockholm and on to Copenhagen.
This one is special. My sister Amanda turns 50, and this trip is my birthday present to her. It’ll be the first time we’ve ever travelled together, and I can’t think of a better way to do it than chasing the northern lights and crossing Scandinavia by train. While we are still sketching out the day-to-day details and leaving plenty of room for plans to evolve, we have a few major must-sees and potential highlights in mind.
Tromsø and the Northern Lights
We are hoping to kick things off in Tromsø, about 350 km north of the Arctic Circle. Late September is the start of aurora season when the nights get dark enough again, so heading out of town to hunt for the northern lights is a top priority. For our daytime explorations, potential highlights include checking out the Arctic Cathedral, taking the Fjellheisen cable car for panoramic views over the city, and spending as much time out among the fjords as the weather allows. We plan to keep our schedule loose so we can adapt to the best clear-sky conditions.
The Overland Route to Narvik
Since Tromsø has no railway—it’s on an island among the fjords—we are looking at taking a scenic coach down to Narvik to start our rail journey. If we take this route, it promises a beautiful coastal drive past the mountains to connect us to the train network.
The Arctic Night Train
A major must-do on our radar is catching SJ’s Arctic sleeper train from Narvik to Stockholm. The dream is to ride the historic Ofoten Line, winding high above the fjord before crossing into Sweden. From there, it’s a journey through Swedish Lapland—passing Abisko, Kiruna, and endless stretches of forest and lakes. The goal is to fall asleep in the Arctic and wake up heading south.
The itinerary will undoubtedly shift and change as we get closer, but the northern lights, the night train, and giving Amanda a 50th to remember are absolutely non-negotiable.
Plans
The overland adventure: Tromsø has no railway, so a scenic coach to Narvik joins the SJ Arctic Night Train through Swedish Lapland to Stockholm, then the X2000 to Copenhagen. Three countries, six nights in Tromsø and one under Lapland skies.
Rough costs per person (AUD): long-haul economy return $1,900–2,600; coach $60–80, sleeper $140–250, X2000 $70–120.
Day 1Mon, Sep 17
- 1
Fly Sydney to Tromsø
One open-jaw ticket: into Tromsø, home from Copenhagen. Straight to the Arctic for the equinox dark skies.
- 2
Six nights in Tromsø
- 1
Day 2Tue, Sep 18
- 3
Aurora chase #1
Chases early, while we’re fresh: small-group minibuses inland toward Finland.
- 3
Day 3Wed, Sep 19
- 4
Aurora chase #2
- 4
Day 4Thu, Sep 20
- 5
Aurora chase #3 (if needed)
A spare night for the clearest forecast.
- 5
Day 6Sat, Sep 22
- 6
Last day in Tromsø
A relaxed day: museums around town, or a daytime fjord catamaran.
- 6
Day 7Sun, Sep 23
- 7
Coach to Narvik
Bus 100 from Prostneset, along the coastal fjords and over mountain passes in autumn gold.
- 8
Narvik War Museum
- 9
Arctic night train to Stockholm
SJ’s Arctic Night Train in a private two-berth sleeper: up the Ofoten Line, through Abisko National Park and Swedish Lapland, then down into central Sweden.
- 7
Day 8Mon, Sep 24
- 10
Two nights in Stockholm
Into Stockholm Central around 9:30, then the cobbled lanes of the Old Town and the waterfront.
- 10
Day 9Tue, Sep 25
- 11
Vasa Museum and Skansen
The 17th-century warship at the Vasa Museum, and Skansen on Djurgården.
- 11
Day 10Wed, Sep 26
- 12
X2000 to Copenhagen
The tilting high-speed train across southern Sweden and over the Øresund Bridge.
- 13
Four nights in Copenhagen
- 12
Day 11Thu, Sep 27
- 14
Nyhavn and Christianshavn by bike
- 14
Day 12Fri, Sep 28
- 15
Royal palaces and Torvehallerne
- 15
Day 13Sat, Sep 29
- 16
Danish bakeries and a free day
- 16
Day 14Sun, Sep 30
- 17
Fly home from Copenhagen
- 17
Scandi design and Arctic wilderness: a relaxed, walkable start in Copenhagen, then seven nights of Tromsø. Two countries (three with a day trip to Malmö), and one direct 2½-hour flight between them.
Rough costs per person (AUD): long-haul economy return $1,900–2,600; Copenhagen to Tromsø $180–350.
Day 1Mon, Sep 17
- 1
Fly Sydney to Copenhagen
One open-jaw ticket: into Copenhagen, home from Tromsø via Oslo. Then the 15-minute metro into the city.
- 2
Four nights in Copenhagen
A boutique hotel. A gentle canal walk and an early dinner.
- 1
Day 2Tue, Sep 18
- 3
Nyhavn and Amalienborg
A morning stroll through Nyhavn, the changing of the guard at Amalienborg Palace, lunch at Torvehallerne food market and dinner in the Latin Quarter.
- 3
Day 3Wed, Sep 19
- 4
Copenhagen by bike or harbour ferry
Christiansborg Tower for the view, the Black Diamond Royal Library and the King’s Garden.
- 4
Day 4Thu, Sep 20
- 5
Louisiana Museum or Malmö
35 minutes up the coast by train to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, by the sea. Or over the Øresund Bridge to Malmö, Sweden.
- 5
Day 5Fri, Sep 21
- 6
Fly to Tromsø
Direct with SAS or Norwegian, down over the glaciated Lyngen Alps.
- 7
Eight nights in Tromsø
A harbourfront hotel.
- 8
Fjellheisen at dusk
The cable car up Mount Storsteinen for our first twilight view over Tromsø.
- 6
Day 6Sat, Sep 22
- 9
Polar Museum and the Arctic Cathedral
The Polar Museum and the Arctic Cathedral, then an afternoon at Pust, the floating harbour sauna.
- 10
Aurora chase #1
A small-group minibus chase inland toward the Finnish border.
- 9
Day 7Sun, Sep 23
- 11
Sommarøy
The coastal island: turquoise water, white sand beaches and mountains dressed in autumn birch.
- 11
Day 8Mon, Sep 24
- 12
Sámi culture and reindeer
A Sámi camp outside Tromsø: joik songs, reindeer herding and a warm meal around a lavvu fire.
- 13
Aurora chase #2
- 12
Day 9Tue, Sep 25
- 14
Fjord cruise or a hike on Kvaløya
A silent electric catamaran through Tromsøysundet, or a gentle day hike on Kvaløya (Whale Island).
- 14
Day 10Wed, Sep 26
- 15
Weather buffer
Kept free for the weather: Norwegian wool knitwear, the Troll Museum, or an afternoon rib boat out on the fjord.
- 15
Day 11Thu, Sep 27
- 16
Aurora chase #3
Kept flexible for the clearest night in the forecast.
- 16
Day 12Fri, Sep 28
- 17
Farewell Arctic dinner
A slow morning, then Arctic char or king crab at Fiskekompaniet.
- 17
Day 13Sat, Sep 29
- 18
Fly home via Oslo
Tromsø to Oslo, then home to Sydney on day 14.
- 18
Canal heritage and Arctic skies: 17th-century Amsterdam and its museums, then the wild quiet of northern Norway. Two countries, one flight between them via Oslo. The order of the Tromsø days is flexible.
Rough costs per person (AUD): long-haul economy return $1,900–2,600; Amsterdam to Tromsø $230–400.
Day 1Mon, Sep 17
- 1
Fly Sydney to Amsterdam
One open-jaw ticket: into Amsterdam, home from Tromsø via Oslo. Then the 15-minute train to Amsterdam Centraal.
- 2
Four nights in Amsterdam
A casual dinner by the water.
- 1
Day 2Tue, Sep 18
- 3
The Jordaan and the Anne Frank House
A morning walk through the Nine Streets, the Anne Frank House (book well ahead) and a sunset canal cruise.
- 3
Day 3Wed, Sep 19
- 4
Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum
Rembrandt and Vermeer at the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, then a walk through Vondelpark.
- 4
Day 4Thu, Sep 20
- 5
Haarlem or Zaanse Schans
20 minutes by train to Haarlem’s quiet canals, breweries and courtyard gardens, or to the working windmills at Zaanse Schans.
- 5
Day 5Fri, Sep 21
- 6
Fly to Tromsø via Oslo
A morning flight through Oslo, landing late in the afternoon.
- 7
Eight nights in Tromsø
An evening stroll across the Tromsø Bridge.
- 6
Day 6Sat, Sep 22
- 8
Aurora chase #1
A small-group minibus chase.
- 8
Day 7Sun, Sep 23
- 9
Fjellheisen and Mount Storsteinen
- 9
Day 8Mon, Sep 24
- 10
Sommarøy and Ersfjordbotn
The coast road out to Sommarøy and Ersfjordbotn.
- 10
Day 9Tue, Sep 25
- 11
Aurora chase #2
- 11
Day 10Wed, Sep 26
- 12
Sámi camp and reindeer feeding
- 12
Day 11Thu, Sep 27
- 13
Pust and the old wharf
The floating harbour sauna, then the historic wharf.
- 13
Day 12Fri, Sep 28
- 14
Aurora chase #3 (if needed)
A spare night for the clearest forecast.
- 14
Day 13Sat, Sep 29
- 15
Fly home via Oslo
Tromsø to Oslo, then home to Sydney on day 14.
- 15
Timeline
Still being planned. Check-ins appear here once we’re on the road.